Amber Listserv / Bandsaw question

[Andy Ng]

Thanks John...I came across that website last night. When I do have enough
broken blades to justify the cost of a pulse-welder and the other equipment,
I may give it a go.

Andy

On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 8:49 PM, JOHN FUDALA <ambersafari at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Andy,
>
> I did a little web search and it turns out I was right:
> welding the blades is easy and annealing does the trick.
> Check it out for yourself:
>
> http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/shop_projects/bandsaw_blade_weld_jig/index.html
>
> John
>
> On 6/22/08, Andy Ng <andy.ng.aik.hoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hiya Mitch. I'm afraid you're right...the repair charge is about 3/4 the
>> cost of a new blade and no telling how long the weld last. Looks like I'm
>> best off using brand-new blades unless I learn how to be a bandsaw doctor.
>>
>> Hi Johnno. In answer to your question, I cut my amber dry because I found
>> out that the stuff just turns to fine dust, no melting even at high cutting
>> speeds. My first bandsaw was a wet/dry rig and as it turned out, the extra
>> cost for wet-cutting capability was not necessary.
>> Since I don't have to use water cooling, there's no drying time before the
>> blanks are ground to the desired shapes with tungsten-carbide drums (also
>> dry). The savings in time and no messy slurry makes wearing respirators a
>> minor inconvenience.
>>
>> I know it's long overdue, but I'll get around to posting some video clips
>> on youtube on bandsaw work as well as acetone's effect (or lack thereof) on
>> Borneo amber and Philippine copal.
>>
>> My thanks to both of you for the input!
>>
>> Andy
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 21, 2008 at 6:46 PM, mssilver <mssilver at optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>>  Hi Andy,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I worked in a machine shop many years ago and the master machinist used
>>> to weld the blades back together and then regrind the tooth at the weld.
>>> The weld tends to be a bit more rigid than the blade itself so it only
>>> worked on saws with a wide wheel or blade pully thing.  Too sharp of a bend
>>> and it could possibly snap again.  If the tooth wasn;t ground perfectly then
>>> every time that weld came around through the material you would know it and
>>> not cut as cleanly.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> An expert would have to do it and may charge as much as a new blade.
>>> That was many years ago and there must be a machine out there somewhere
>>> where you put the blade in and it welds it in seconds and your done.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Good luck!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Mitch
>>>
>>>
>>>  ------------------------------
>>>
>>> *From:* amber-bounces at ambericawest.com [mailto:
>>> amber-bounces at ambericawest.com] *On Behalf Of *Andy Ng
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, June 21, 2008 3:57 AM
>>> *To:* amber at ambericawest
>>> *Subject:* Amber Listserv / Bandsaw question
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi guys,
>>>
>>> I'm running 3 bandsaws of various sizes to slice Borneo amber and soon
>>> will add a 4th. The blades are of Swedish and German makes and the guide
>>> bearings are all precision German ones. Cutting is always done dry, and
>>> blade tension as well as guide bearing alignment is checked daily.
>>>
>>> While the blades do not snap very often and the cost is tolerable, I was
>>> wondering if it is feasible to repair the broken ones? Or am I better off
>>> just using a fresh blade when the old one gives way?
>>>
>>> Andy
>>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
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